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For engines that will outrun your competition, give us
a call. We can build any type of derby combination you want, but we do
specialize in the small block Chevrolet. We do not believe there is
another engine builder in the United States who specializes in engines for
Demolition Derbies or Figure 8 racing. From throttle responsive torque
monsters to a stock rebuild utilizing the right combination of factory
parts, we can supply individual parts or complete drop in engines. If
you have specific needs, we can build to your specs incorporating some of
our special demolition derby techniques.
It is important to remember that derby engines are
unique creatures. The problem is this: most engine builders have
no real experience with demolition derbies. I have been driving and
building engines for both demolition derbies and circle track for over 10
years. What works in a winning circle track application does not
always work in a derby engine. There are so my myths about what you
should and shouldn't do to a derby engine, most of them promulgated by
circle track engine builders who don't fully understand the derby engine
environment, or who just want to sell you more go-fast parts. For that
reason, we sell all of our engines as drop in items, complete with carb and
distributor. The engines have been broke in, timed, tuned, and only
need your accessories such as water pump, pulleys, starter, alternator,
exhaust, etc. This eliminates any problems regarding damage during
break in, improper tuning, valve settings, etc. They are a bit more
expensive, but the time involved in setting them up right is well worth it.
Although some of this will be repeated in the FAQ
section, I can't stress enough how important the seemingly unimportant items
are during engine building. With the exception of the 350 entry-level
engine we sell, all engines have over 8 hours in block prep alone. I
know this sounds crazy, but remember, derby engines are special.
Because of the extreme temperatures and abuse, have a block prepped properly
will add to its longevity. Did you know that most blocks have factory
casting mold sand still embedded in them? They make it through the
first 100,000 miles of use usually, but under extreme temperatures and
vibration abuse the casting sand will break loose. I have spent up to
3 hours just inspecting the block and eliminating the casting sand. So
after the first hot tank session, they are inspected, ground on, polished
where needed, and tanked again. Then the block is measured, bored,
decked, and all threads holes are chased with a tap and deburred. The
assembly is then mocked up to check for proper clearances, disassembled and
any final clearance work is done. It goes back to the hot-tank for one
final cleaning, then is hand washed with soap and water before it is ready
for final assembly.
Here are the basic engines we offer at this time, but
remember, we will build to suit your needs. All engines require a good
Chevy 350 or 400 core for exchange (if no core is provided, add $175):
350EL
(when available)
350/305 CR
and 350/305 ROLLER
ICE CUBE
HP SERIES
ENGINES
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